Osios Loucas and Delphi

Monday 13^th May Athens to Osios Loucas.

The morning was spent at the campsite using the internet facilities to catch up with Lizzy (Keele) and servicing the van. Mike also gave the carpets and interior a good clean. We left the campsite at 2.00pm but it was nearly 4.00pm after we had been food shopping, sorted diesel and gas, had an abortive cloths shopping trip for some shorts (Jacqui’s only pair had holes in.) We took the E962 to Thiva and then the smaller route (green of course) in the direction of Domvraina and for about 15km the road was being resurfaced so we bumped along for a good while with everything in the van and our bodies shaking. We could also see a dramatic thunderstorm in the distance and although we did have some heavy rain  we were on the fringe of it. The road from Domvraina towards our destination, Osios Loucas was breath-takingly beautiful. Beautiful mountain gorges with roads lined with yellow broom. Although it increased our diesel consumption significantly, it was worth it. We were heading for a Byzantine Monastery at Osios Loucas. We could see it in splendid isolation on top of a hill and eventually the road took us there. It was 7.30pm when we arrived and the monastery was shut but the car park was empty so we pulled in and decided to stay the night. Monks are known to help weary travellers. It was impossible to describe how beautiful and tranquil it was there. We were literally miles from anywhere perched on top of a mountain. All we could hear was a cuckoo that was answering another in the distance or was it an echo?

Tuesday 14^th May Osios Loucas to Delphi.

We were up early as we wanted to  be ready to enter the Monastery once it opened and move off to Delphi because we had just started to realise all historical Greek sites closed  by 3.00pm. Our guidebook said that this monastery opened at 8.00am. but as we walked down a man who looked like the “odd job man” stopped us. He only spoke Greek except for the ability to ask for a cigarette and advised us, with the use of our watches, that the site would not be open until 10.00 am. However, he came back at 9.15am to say it was now open so we followed him down the stone steps to the entrance. He seemed rather attached to us: as we went around this lovely site he kept appearing to 1) show us a sun dial hidden on the wall, 2) point us to the direction of the grave yard and small church not shown on our guide map, 3) give us olive oil soaked cotton wool to “cross” our hands and forehead before entering the main church and 4) give us some Turkish Delight. All this and we hadn't been able to help him out with his request for a fag.  Although the whole site was lovely the main point of visiting was to see the mosaic pictures in the portico and the main part of the church. Shortly after 10.30am we were back on the mountain road to Delphi. This is the second most important archaeological site in Greece and it was quite busy. Zeus, it is said, sent two Eagles out, one to fly east and the other to fly west. Where they met, Zeus sent down a bolt of lightning and this was to be known as the centre of the world (Delphi). One of the site's highlights was the Temple of Apollo but there are many other monuments, treasures etc. as you zig zag up the hill. But the thing that makes the place special is its location. It overlooks a beautiful gorge and is backed by the towering Mt. Parnassos. Having spent only 90 minutes here we headed off to the other two adjacent sites: the gymnasium and the Temples of Athena. The first was closed but you could see what was there from the road above and we walked around the second, although Jacqui was starting to get extremely hot. We walked back to the van and had lunch before heading off down the mountain to the coastal town of Itea where we knew we could park our van on the harbour front. We walked round the town in the late afternoon and Jacqui bought a white linen dress. In the evening we were pleased to see John and Marion drive up and after supper we shared a glass of wine and travelling tales with them.